I was able to get enough information to get started, but I wouldn't say there was enough to make me feel confident about what I was doing. Why copper? Well, it is the best conductor of heat of any metal used for cooking, 25 times better than stainless steel!
You'll use less heat I can boil on medium , heat is distributed to the entire pot no hot spots , and heating will be more responsive. Plus, copper just looks amazing! Why a tin lining? This copper oxide is also called verdigris, and is that green stuff that you see on the Statue of Liberty, or other copper exposed to the elements. All really old copper pots have tin linings, and those are the ones you're likely to find sitting in antique shops or thrift stores because they look real grungy and scary to cook in until you bring them back to life!
What do I look for in an old copper pot? If you find an old copper pot, pay attention to the thickness of the walls and the overall weight as these indicate the quality of its construction. It should feel hefty and solid when you pick it up. Really old copper pots often have a brazed "dovetail" or "finger" joints where the hammered copper sheet was joined together, later models were made using industrial machinery to spin or form them without joints.
If you find an old copper pot on craigslist or ebay, be sure to ask how much it weighs, that'll give you a good idea if it's worth what they are asking. Can I do this? While your results definitely won't be as good as having a pro do a hand wiped tinning on the first try there are several places out there that will do this for you, East Coast Tinning and Rocky Mountain Retinning to name a few , it will definitely be functional.
In the end, I decided that since my pots are really old hand hammered and dovetailed pieces of art, I didn't mind if my tin lining isn't totally smooth.
These are items that can take a beating, mine are at least years old, and still have a lot of life left in them. A few bumps and lumps just add to the charm! See instructions for making one here plumbers tools. The pots I found had a huge patina on them, really gorgeous.
This is great if you're displaying them on a wall, but I'm planning on cooking with them for decades to come and want them to shine like new. Next some Bar Keepers Friend and a sponge did the rest. Next step was a brillo pad or fine steel wool on the inside. I scrubbed until there was no more verdigris green copper oxide to be seen. Lots of copper showing through the worn tin lining and overall very clean. Next up was a soak in an acid pickle to degrease the pan, and get it spotless.
Always use a plastic container, a 5 gallon paint bucket with a lid works great. First fill the bucket with water I used three gallons of water , followed by a bottle of muriatic acid you can get this at a hardware store, I used a full gallon. CAREFUL , this is acid so even if it is diluted it is still nasty stuff, so use gloves and protect your eyes from any splashing when you dip the pot in or take it out.
Always be near a water source in case you do splash yourself and need to rinse off. After an hour I took out the pot and gave them a good rinse, the muriatic acid will change the color of the copper to a light pink unless there is lots of patina and gunk still stuck on there, which sometimes discolors it a bit. Once the outside has been cleansed of acid, I gave mine a final Brillo scrub on the inside to get and loose bits, it some places it gets down to the bare copper, which is fine.
One more rinse and now it was ready to get a fresh coat of tin! To avoid getting tin on the outside of your pot you can put "whiting" on there powdered chalk with a little water works I'm told. I personally skipped this step and didn't have too many problems with dripping tin on the outside.
Wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants, and closed toed shoes. The pan will be really hot, as will the tin and you don't want it touching your bare skin. If you use sal ammoniac as your flux it will create a thick white smoke when heated, and from what I hear it will rust anything it touches.
Also, not good to breath in since it is corrosive, so use a good respirator mask. I used a propane turkey fryer as a heat source on a medium heat. Put your copper pot on there and slowly heat it. If the pot is hot enough degrees or so the tin will melt right away and turn liquid.
You may have to heat the sides of the pan separately to get the copper hot enough for the tin to bond there. Where the handle meets the pot will also require additional heat as the handle acts as a heat sink. Trial and error will play a part. As you are heating you will see when the old tin lining melts, as it starts to get shiny and change color where the heat is applied.
Know that you can always cool the pan down, clean it, flux it, and then remelt the tin. It took me a couple of tries to get it right. You can let the pan cool down naturally, or use the assistance of a 5 gallon bucket of water.
I generally scooped up a little water, rolled it around the inside of the pan, and then scooped up some more to slowly cool the pot before fully submerging it. My results were mixed my first time around, but the inside of the pot ended up fully coated in tin except for a few little spots on the upper edge, visible in this picture. I used WAY too much tin the first time, so the finish is a bit lumpy, but it's ready to cook in now!
I got better with a little trial and error over time. I had to move the pot around, and heat the sides to get the tin flowing. A plumbers torch would have been handy for more accurate heating.
Worst case scenario you start at the beginning and do it all over again. In fact, on a few pots I did the bottom very successfully, but the sides not as well. I just went back and scrubbed, pickled, and rinsed before going back to do the sides a second time. For someone without any experience other than googling for a couple hours, it was a lot easier than people made it out to be on the internet.
If your pan is old enough to need re-tinning, the matching lid was probably lost long ago. A functional and modern solution is to use a lid made of silicone.
You can find various sets online one example, 7. They work really well if you're cooking with an old irregular copper pot, and are inexpensive.
As a bonus, you can use these silicone lids on top of mixing bowls etc instead of saran wrap hurray for the environment! There are plenty of amazing quality old copper pots out there in thrift shops, antique parlors, estate sales, and on the internet that have been relegated to sitting around as old-timey kitchen display items. The intense patina and suspect scratched lining make many people afraid of ever using really old copper pots to cook in.
With a little elbow grease and a little effort you can bring them back to their former glory! Check out the price of a new copper pot sites like Sur la Table have really nice ones and you'll see why this is such a great DIY activity. Beware, once you realize that you're capable of bringing these old copper pots back to like new functionality you might get addicted! At last count I'd picked up over twenty and made them shiny and new again! It's only right to credit all the places I found information from before I got started , so here they are; Videos - Start to finish hand tinning in Italian, but you'll get the idea - Old-school coppersmith hand tinning a pot he makes it look easy - Another hand tinning video Where to get supplies - Source for pure tin.
A new and improved second step to tinning was published by Mr. Yeah that's right, ! He really drops some knowledge, so below is his full text, with the second tinning step in bold. It is also well known that the tinning applied in the usual manner is not durable, being soon worn away by cleaning, and on that account must be frequently renewed. Some, therefore, have proposed enameling for kitchen utensils of copper ; which, indeed, would answer exceedingly well, and be much safer for the health than impure tin mixed with lead, often employed for tinning ; but, unfortunately, enamel is too dear, and readily breaks when the vessel receives the least blow ; which cannot al ways be avoided.
The following process for tinning is attended with no danger from poisonous ingredients, as no lead is used in it; the tinning, too, is exceedingly durable, adds strength to the copper vessel and secures it from the action of acids much longer than the common tinning.
When the vessel has been prepared and cleaned in the usual manner, it must be roughened on the inside by being beat on a rough anvil, in order that the tinning may hold better, and be more intimately connected with the copper. The process of tinning must then be begun with perfectly pure grained tin, having an addition of sal ammoniac instead of the common colophonium.
Over this tinning, which must cover the copper in an even and uniform, manner throughout, a second harder coat must be applied, as the first forms only a kind of medium for connecting the second with the copper.
For this second tinning you employ pure grained tin, mixed with zinc in the proportion of two to three, which must be applied also with sal ammoniac smooth and even, so that the lower stratum may be entirely covered with it. This coating, which by the addition of the zinc, becomes pretty hard and solid, is then to be hammered with a smoothing hammer, after it has been properly rubbed and scoured with chalk and water, by which it becomes more solid, and acquires a smooth compact surface.
Vessels and utensils may be tinned in this manner on both sides. In this case, after being exposed to a sufficient heat, they must be dipped in the fluid tin, by which means both sides will be tinned at the same time.
As this tinning is exceedingly durable, and has a beautiful color, which it always retains, it may be employed for various kinds of metal instruments and vessels, which it may be necessary to secure from rust.
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